In the Kitchens at Hogwarts

Young witch hard at work on her O.W.L. examinations.
Note the shrunken mandrake's head.

The Picky Eater and I have a long and most pleasant association with that esteemed wizarding institution The Hogwarts School of Witchcraft & Wizardry, she as a prefect and Head Girl in her year, and I as an instructor at our annual Hogwarts short course. During the week-long course life takes on the soothing routine found in schools where the students are happy and excited to attend, the staff are benignly voluble, and the food is excellent. While life at the "real" Hogwarts may be filled with drama, strife, and uncertainty, it's all good fun, lots of wizardry crafts & potions, quidditch matches, and scrumptious snacks for elevenses during the Short Course.

In the stead of Mssrs. Moony, Wormtail, Padfoot and Prongs, we offer not a Marauders' Map, but the makings of the aforementioned elevenses and a bevy of potions which would even satisfy Prof. Snape. After a long morning of classwork in Charms, Divination, Herbology, or Ancient Runes and a brisk quidditch practice, young witches and wizards are ready to tuck in. Elevenses always includes a bracing cup of tea or cocoa, toasted English muffins, crumpets or scones with butter, lemon curd and jelly, and Hagrid's famous Rockcakes. (Although we can assure you that these cakes are quite delicious and most decidedly not the jawbreakers that Hagrid bakes!) Pass the recipes on to your house elves, or in an elve-less household like Mrs. Weasley's, make them yourself.

While acceptable English muffins (and even crumpets) can be conveniently procured from your local purveyor, store-bought scones pale in comparison to those conjured up in the Hogwarts kitchen, best baked and served the same day.

Scones with lemon curd & crumpets with raspberry-lavender preserves.

Tea Scones
Using cake flour gives these scones a tender crumb; but you will also have excellent results with unbleached flour. Makes 8 generous sized scones. *See the note about cutting smaller ones.

2 c. cake or unbleached flour
1/4 c. sugar
1 Tb baking powder
1/4 t. salt
6 Tb chilled butter, cut into pieces
1 egg
1/2 c. cold whole milk

Preheat the oven to 400°.
Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and lightly sprinkle it with flour.

Combine the  flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt in a large bowl. Add the butter and rub it with your fingertips until the mixture is like course meal.

Beat the egg and milk together in a bowl. Pour over the dry ingredients, and combine with a fork. Gather the dough into a ball.

Turn the dough out on a floured surface and shape into an 8” round about 3/4” thick. Transfer it to the baking sheet. Cut the dough to make 8 equal wedges and separate them on the cookie sheet. *Alternately, you can use a simply shaped cookie cutter, like a heart, to cut out smaller individual scones.

Scone dough cut in wedges before separating.

Bake about 15 minutes, until the scones are firm to the touch in the center, and golden brown. Smaller scones may have a shorter baking time. Start checking at about 10 minutes.
Serve warm or at room temperature.  Recipe adapted from the May 1998 issue of Bon Appetit.

Lemon Curd 
Just keep stirring! If you work hard enough you won't need to strain out any pesky lumps. Worth the effort.

3 large eggs
1/2 - 3/4 c. sugar (use less for more tartness)
1/4 c. fresh squeezed lemon juice
2 Tb unsalted butter
2 Tb grated lemon zest

In the top of a double boiler over simmering water, whisk the eggs and sugar until smooth. Add the other ingredients and cook over medium heat, whisking continuously, until the mixture resembles slightly whipped cream.

Remove from the heat, cover, and stir the lemon curd frequently as it cools. When cool, strain (if necessary) and store in the refrigerator for up to four days.
Makes 1 ½ cups.  Adapted from The Village Baker’s Wife by Gayle Ortiz.

Rockcakes iced & cooling.

Hagrid's Rockcakes
Spicy, tender and guaranteed not to break any teeth. It's easy to eat four or five of these hardy drop cookies in the blink of an eye (or the swish of a wand.) They freeze nicely if well wrapped.
Makes 3 dozen cookies.

1 c. butter, softened
1 1/2 cups brown sugar, packed
3 eggs
3 c. flour
1/2 t. salt
1 t. baking soda
2 t. cinnamon
1 t. cloves
1 c. nuts, chopped
1 c. raisins

Preheat the oven to 375°.

Cream the butter and sugar until fluffy. Beat in the eggs one at a time. Sift the dry ingredients together, and stir into the butter mixture. Then stir in the nuts and raisins.

Drop teaspoonfuls of dough on greased (or parchment papered) cookie sheets about 2” apart. Bake 8-10 minutes, until golden around the edges. These cookies are better slightly underdone.

While still hot, gently brush the cookies with this glaze:
Vanilla Glaze
1 1/2 c. powdered sugar
2 Tb. soft butter
2 Tb plus 2 t. light cream
1 t. vanilla
pinch of salt

Mix ingredients in a small bowl until smooth. The mixture should be the consistency of mayonnaise. Cover when not in use.

Edible Potions
Potions Class, in the absence of Snape, offers a splendid opportunity for young witches & wizards to devise their own snacks and potables. We offer two examples of exemplary potion lessons- the "Eat-Your-Veggies Potion" based on a favorite recipe of Mrs. Wesley's from the tome Charm Your Own Cheese, and a simple draught known as the "Babbling Beverage."

In concocting both potions, insist that the results be totally tasty and edible, forewarning students that they will be eating and drinking them as their elevenses snack. If your class is divided into houses (we like to name our houses Unicorn, Dragon, Phoenix, and Hippogriff to avoid disappointment) members of each house can work cooperatively on their own batch of potion. Trust me, you won't want, or need, any more!

Eat-Your-Veggies Potion
Potion base:
1 cup sour cream
1 cup yogurt

Stir the potion base ingredients together and distribute a portion to each house or wizard in a small bowl or cauldron.
Add any desired combination of these herbs and flavorings to taste. Encourage young scholars to be prudent when flavoring their potions- adding components in small doses until a pleasurable balance is attained.

• Fresh and/or herbs: Parsley, cilantro, basil, thyme, oregano, tarragon                                             Make sure that the fresh herbs have been washed. They can be chopped fine with a knife or chopper or, more safely, snipped with a clean pair of scissors.
• Soy sauce
• Olive oil
• Salt & pepper
• Balsamic vinegar
• Worcestershire sauce
• Mustard- yellow or Dijon
• Hot sauce

Serve with crackers, breadsticks, and crudites- sliced carrots, celery sticks, bell pepper, cucumber, etc. Encourage witches and wizards to try potions made by other houses.

Babbling Beverage

Be sure to warn your students that overindulgence may result in the dreaded motor mouth syndrome

Beverage base:

Offer a reasonable assortment of the following: Ginger ale, 7-up, apple juice, sparkling water.

Measure 2-3 cups of mixed-as-desired beverage base into a large cauldron or pitcher.

Add some or all of these additions to make a tasty brew:

• Spoonfuls of undiluted frozen juice concentrate- orange or lemonade
• Flavored Kool aid mix (various, blue is always nice)
• Spices & flavorings- vanilla, almond extract, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg

Add ice and ladle into cups. Enjoy and try not to babble uncontrollably.

A Visit to Hogsmeade- 

Young witches and wizards delight in their weekend visits to Hogsmeade, and are more than happy to pitch in and help Mr. Honeyduke replenish his stores. After a spell spent making magical candies, nothing is better than quaffing a tankard of pumpkin juice or butter beer at Madam Rosmerta's esteemed establishment, The Three Broomsticks.

It is possible for students to assist Mr. Honeyduke by making two of his best sellers- chocolate frogs and chocolate wands.

Chocolate Frogs & Wands

24 oz bag of chocolate chips

Gummi frogs

Bag of pretzel "Rods"

Colored cake decorating sprinkles

Double boiler

Inexpensive/disposable paint brushes

Parchment or wax paper

Melt the chocolate chips in the top of a double boiler over barely simmering water. Alternately, melt and transfer to a small crockpot for safer house elf working conditions.

Use the paintbrushes to coat the frogs with melted chocolate. Set on a piece of wax or parchment paper to cool.

Dip about half the length of the pretzel rods in the melted chocolate to coat. Hold vertically over melted chocolate to allow the excess to drip back into the pan. While the chocolate is still soft, hold the wand over wax/parchment paper or a plate and coat with the sprinkles. Cool until chocolate is hard on paper.

Pumpkin Juice

Icy cold, this is the young wizard's thirst quencher of choice.

Makes 4-6 servings

32 oz. bottle of apple juice

14 oz. can of canned pumpkin

2 tsp. ground cinnamon

1/2 tsp. ground nutmeg

optional: 1/4 cup honey

Measure about 1 cup of apple juice into a 2 qt pitcher, bowl or cauldron. Gradually beat in the canned pumpkin and about half of the honey, along with the cinnamon and nutmeg. Once the mixture is smooth, gradually add the remainder of the apple juice until well mixed. Taste and add additional spices and honey to taste. Serve over ice if desired. 

Butter Beer
The exact recipe for Butter Beer is a closely held secret, and much controversy surrounds it among its aficionados. Young witches and wizards seem happy to drink any of its many iterations.

For 4-6 servings

2 12 oz. bottles of cream soda (note: there appear to be many new gourmet varieties available which are less sickeningly sweet than the high volume manufacturers, and they will produce a much more palatable product)

1/2 cup whipping cream

1/4 cup caramel sauce (homemade** or store bought)

Chill the cream soda. Whip the cream in a clean bowl with either a hand or electric beater until it forms sturdy but not stiff peaks. (Note: young wizards may enjoy the novelty of operating a Muggle egg beater.) Gently stir in the caramel sauce, trying not to deflate the cream.

Fill a tall wine or beer glass with 4-6 oz. cream soda and add several large dollops of the caramel whipped cream. Clink glasses and enjoy.

Quick Butter Beer

Alternately, for a quicker brew, pour a quantity of cream soda over several scoops of butter caramel ice cream in a tall glass. Stir together gently and enjoy.

**Homemade Caramel Sauce

Quite a wizardly concoction in and of itself. Watch plain sugar and water transform themselves into nectar of the gods.

Makes 1 cup.

1 c. granulated sugar 

1/3 c. water 

An additional 1/3 to 1⁄2 c. water 

1 c. heavy cream

Boil the sugar and 1/3 cup water in a small heavy saucepan, swirling until the sugar is dissolved. Put a lid on the pan and boil slowly until the sugar bubbles thicken considerably.

Uncover and boil without stirring until the syrup begins to caramelize. Swirl the pan until the syrup is walnut brown. Remove from the heat, and continue to swirl. Avert your face and pour in the additional water.

Simmer, stirring frequently, until the caramel has melted into the water. Boil the mixture until it is a light syrup. Add the cream, blend in thoroughly, and boil, stirring, for 2-3 minutes to reduce the cream slightly. Serve warm or cold. 

Adapted from Julia and More Company by Julia Child.

Hogwarts in Gingerbread

Many young wizards and witches of our acquaintance enjoy rendering gingerbread house versions of Hogwarts. Shown below is a splendid rendition by our young friend Frank.

Can you spot Nagini, the Forbidden Forest, Hagrid & Nearly Headless Nick?

Eating Cleveland - Picky Eater Style

The Picky Eater had the good fortune to secure a summer internship at the flagship headquarters of Lubrizol, world renowned manufacturer of industrial lubricants and a Berkshire Hathaway company, in the Lake County (as in Lake Erie) suburbs just east of Cleveland. I really can't explain what she was doing, beyond what she seems to do best in both the kitchen and the lab- mixing unlikely ingredients together and making it work.

Despite her transport limitations (bicycle & public bus) in an auto oriented culture, she managed to hit a few of the high spots for dining during her sojourn in this rust belt metropolis, which she announced, prior to decamping there, "had a vibrant food scene."

Too much meat @ the Westside market!

Arriving with California sensibilities, the Picky Eater and her devoted mater quickly learned to follow their own instincts, rather than popular opinion, when it came to foodspotting. The highly touted historic Westside Market, overloaded with meat products, pierogies, commercially grown produce, and PEOPLE(!!) ran a distant 4th to the delights of the Saturday farmers market at Shaker Square, the University Heights Whole Foods, and her local suburban upscale grocery store, Heinen's.

Our two Saturday visits to the Farmers Market at Shaker Square were somewhat hindered by the onslaught of showers blowing off of the lake, which pretty much nixed the possibility of photos, but we loved seeing the local produce & producers. They were both somewhat different crowds from those at our local farmers market- homemade syrups, potatoes, meats, Amish and Mid-Western family farmers instead of nuts, Asian and Hispanic vegetables and ex-hippies. We loved the Mackenzie Creamery chevre-style goat cheeses, Chagrin Valley handmade soap, and the Shagbark Hickory syrup. Edible Cleveland, Northeast Ohio's edition of the locally focused food guide that has bloomed from coast to coast is a great source for farmers market locations and food purveyors in the area.

Wherever the Picky Eater ventures in the continental U.S., the local Whole Foods market is her home away from home. With limited internet access in her subterranean apartment, her regular Saturday routine was to ride her bike two miles to the eastern-most edge of Cuyahoga County, catch and transfer on two buses, and spend half the day availing herself of the free wi-fi and prepared vegetable dishes at the University Heights Whole Foods. While there are those ( like the Pater) who trash the Whole Foods concept on principle, in our travels we have been impressed by the efforts that are made to reflect local food mores, i.e. the Cleveland store is the first that I have ever seen to feature a "Smokehouse BBQ" hot foods bar and cook to order burgers and fries. (At our local Whole Foods it's burritos and udon.) I was disappointed that we left Cleveland before the launch of the cheesecake bar!

Bacon Chocolate Cupcakes @ Whole Foods!

In addition to the farmers market, Shaker Square offered two of our most promising restaurant finds in Cleveland- Sasa & Fire Food & Drink.

Sasa was a Cleveland-style Japanese izakaya with a cool dim gray-toned (my new favorite color) interior, the requisite bar, and intriguing menu listings like "Salt and Pepper Wild Norwegian Mackerel," "Kobe Beef Meatballs," "Panko Hamachi Cake," and its namesake "SASA Fire Roll (lobster, crawfish and masago salad with Chinese broccoli, topped with shrimp, spicy mayo, unagi sauce and furikake and served flambeed!)" Second of all, it included guilt-free veggie dishes for the Picky Eater like "Agadashi Tofu Salad" "Shishito Peppers Sauteed with a Szechwan Sauce," and plain old "Steamed Spinach." And, third of all, with a menu divided into small, medium & large size dishes, you are encourgaed to order as you go along, rather than drive yourself nuts (as I do) trying to figure out how much you want to eat up front. I decided to forgo any sushi (as the Picky Eater would say, "This is the Midwest, after all.") as well as their signature "Sasa Fries" (too guilt inducing), but did enjoy the aforementioned mackerel and Kobe meatballs, as well as the Creme Brulee Trio for dessert.

                           

Sasa knows the way to the Picky Eater's heart!

Sasa Restaurant
13120 Shaker Square
Cleveland, OH 44120
216.767.1111

Fire Food & Drink's stripped down rustic interior (and food) hardly hint of Cleveland, and would feel right at home in San Francisco, Los Angeles, or New York, especially with its locally sourced produce, meats & cheeses. The big draw are the tasty results when meats & breads are thrown against the walls of the resident clay tandoor. There is even an outdoor seating area for those precious balmy nights when the winds on Lake Erie have taken a siesta.
We had two lovely meals there, including the following-
~ Il Follo Cuvee Rustat prosecco, Italy NV - for me nothing beats starting a meal with prosecco
~ Artisanal cheese plate (Ohio Bucheron, Wisconsin Buttermilk Blue, St. Nectaire) seasonal fruits, jams, nuts and croustades - Picky Eater stole all the candied walnuts

Baba ganooj, etc. @ Fire

~ Heirloom tomatoes with baba ganooj, sweet pickled cucumbers, clay oven bread and herb salad - Picky Eater main course
~ Tandoor roasted local pork chop accompanied by roasted rittman orchards fruit, arugula, spoonbread and bacon jus - a 3" thick chop, they do meat right in the Midwest.

The Picky Eater refused to share her Fire Split!

~ The Fire Split, a fudge brownie with salted caramel ice cream and brûléed banana - the Picky Eater blew caution to the winds and indulged.
~ Popcorn ice cream sundae, popcorn ice cream with caramel sauce and candied pecans - one of their signature dishes, but eclipsed by the split.
Fire Food & Drink
13220 Shaker Square
Cleveland, OH 44120
216.921.3473

A little further afield is Taza, a reliable Picky Eater pick introduced to her by her Lubrizol mentor Mark. Located in an upscale suburban Woodmere shopping center, it offers huge portions of fresh Lebanese food. The Picky Eater stuck to her regimen with the Lebanese Salata, greens with the usual Middle eastern salad veggies, kalamata olives, and feta, all tossed in a lemon-herb dressing. I had to take half of my "Vegetarian Feast" (tabouli, hummus, baba ghanoush, and falafel) home.
Taza
28601 Chagrin Blvd
Woodmere, OH 44122
(216) 464-4000

Even further afield is the picturesque village of Chagrin Falls, sort of the Carmel of Northeast Ohio, with an impressive double-sided waterfall (the "Falls") highlighting the center of town. With several intriguing restaurants & stores, and an epic ice cream shop, Chagrin Falls makes for an inviting excursion. The Picky Eater picked up a pair of cool designer pants on sale at Juicy Lucy, and I drooled over an ersatz antique chocolate sign that was too big to transport home for the kitchen in White Magnolia, a home decor & accessories shop.
On a return solo visit while the P.E. was slaving away in the lab, I enjoyed an outstanding lunch of goat cheese dumplings with a mu shu flavored mushroom & vegetable saute and seared scallops with bok choy and black rice flavored with a sweet tamari that added notes of blackberries, ginger, and balsamic vinegar at Umami, a tiny 8 table Pan-Asian restaurant on Main Street. It was fun (on the way to the bathroom) to pass by the tiny kitchen and see the handcrafted dishes being assembled.

Umami seared scallops

Umami
42 North Main Street
Chagrin Falls, OH 44022
440.247.8600

I held back from dessert at Umami in order to treat myself to a double scoop of ice cream (Salted Caramel & Queen City Cayenne) at Jeni's Splendid Ice Cream, famous from here to Pittsburgh and beyond. (A pint of Jeni's goes for $12.00 at my local Mollie Stone's Market.) And splendid it was! On my next visit to Pittsburgh when I have access to the Picky Eater's freezer, I will treat myself to a 4-pack of ice cream sandwiches, because even I can't manage four in one sitting.

Jeni's Splendid Ice Cream Scoop Shop
67 North Main Street
Chagrin Falls, OH 44022
440-247-2064
Other outlets in Central and Northeast Ohio, Illinois, Tennessee, & Georgia. Also available nationally packed in dry ice via FedEx delivery.

Other places we loved in Cleveland-
The Cleveland Museum of Art
A museum of the first rank with a collection built in the first half of the 20th century. A famous antiquities collection, tapestries to rival the Metropolitan (just not so many of them), early Renaissance masters, a Caravaggio, and more modern masters- Picasso, Monet, Van Gogh. A new wing has been skillfully appended to the old with an enormous glass enclosed landscaped atrium, which must be a real delight during the long Ohio winter. On the day we visited, it was set up for an after hours wedding, and was absolutely magical.

Cleveland Museum of Art
11150 East Boulevard
Cleveland, Ohio 44106
Free admission; closed on Monday

Frank Gehry's Peter B. Lewis Building at Case Western University
11119 Bellflower Road
Cleveland, Ohio 44106
Amazing. One of those cases where a picture is indeed worth a thousand words! Luckily, we stayed one night at the nearby Glidden House Hotel (also recommended) and could saunter over and around this modern masterpiece at leisure.

Cleveland places that I loved whose doors the Picky Eater would never darken-

The Rock and Roll Hall of Fame
Almost, but not quite worth a special trip to Cleveland. Especially appealing to those of us who survived the 60's. Memorabilia and artifacts, including Elvis's 1975 Lincoln Continental, pieces of Otis Redding's airplane which were recovered from the crash, Janis Joplin's psychedelic Porsche, and Jerry Garcia's custom-made guitars. Great music going 24/7. I loved watching dads sharing their favorites with their kids- clearly the kids got big doses of the music at home. (In our house when the Picky Eater was growing up, Otis Redding was known as the "Shake Guy," and she used to dance to him standing on her daddy's shoes.)

Janis Joplin by R. Crumb c. 1970

Rock and Roll Hall of Fame
1100 E 9th St  Cleveland, OH 44114
(216) 781-7625

Slyman's Deli
Immortalized by the Bare Naked Ladies in "Slyman's Corned Beef- Rhymes with Flyman," Cleveland institution Slyman's Restaurant offers 5" thick corned beef sandwiches that defy your mouth. The only solution is to eat half the meat of half the sandwich with your fingers, chomp down the rest and take the other half home for dinner. Pungent dill pickles, hot mustard and horseradish, a non-stop auto meat slicer, and gruff but genial wait staff make Slyman's an "A"  list stop for this deli deprived Californian.
Slyman's Restaurant
3106 St Clair Ave NE  Cleveland, OH 44114
(216) 621-3760
Open Mon-Fri 6 am - 2 pm; Sat 9 am - 1 pm

Internships may come and go, but we'll always remember the fun we had exploring the Cleveland food scene, just as vibrant as predicted. In honor of the Picky Eater's sojourn, I experimented with a batch of Ohio's official state candy- the Buckeye. Sort of a spherical Reese's peanut butter cup, this borrowed Smitten Kitchen recipe is a breeze until the chocolate dipping begins- definitely more of a challenge than it first appears!

Buckeyes
(from Smitten Kitchen)
Makes at least 3 dozen

1/4 cup (2 ounces) cream cheese, softened
1 1/2 cups peanut butter (smooth, but you can use chunky if you are looking for more texture)
1 cup graham cracker crumbs (from about 14 graham crackers)
1/4 t salt
3 cups powdered sugar
10 tablespoons (1 1/4 sticks) unsalted butter, melted and cooled
12 ounces dark chocolate (60 to 72%), coarsely chopped

Make the filling:
In the bowl of an electric mixer, beat the cream cheese and peanut butter together until combined. Add the graham cracker crumbs and beat for 10 seconds. Add the salt, sugar and butter, and mix on the lowest speed until it stops floating off everywhere, then increase the speed until the ingredients are combined. Scrape down the whole bowl well, then mix again. The mixture will be quite sturdy and a little dry — perfect for shaping. Set it aside while you prepare the coating.

Make the coating:
Melt the chocolate either over a double boiler, stirring until it is completely smooth. Let it cool to tepid (about 100 degrees) while you shape the peanut butter centers.

Assemble the candies:
 Line a sheet pan with parchment paper. Scoop out about one tablespoon’s worth of filling and use your hands to form it into a ball. Place the ball on the prepared sheet and repeat the process until all of the candies have been shaped. They can sit close to each other but make sure they are not touching.

Using a fork or large skewer, dip each ball into the chocolate and roll it about so that almost the entire candy is coating, leaving a small circle uncoated. Play around with a few practice pieces; it's easiest to stick the skewer in the side, angle the bowl towards you and make sure it became submerged as you roll the candy around.

Chill the buckeyes until they are set, about 30 minutes.

Fantasy Birthday Dinner

I had a small birthday over the weekend, small as in not one of those birthday years that end in zero or five.Truth be told, and I really never thought that I would say this, the older you get the smaller and less significant those birthday years become.

My mother promulgated a great sense of celebration and specialness to her children's birthdays. This was related to the fact that when it came time for her own mother, a child immigrant whose real birthdate was lost in a Ukranian shtetl, to choose a date for her birth, she chose the same day as my mother's. Growing up I always rather liked the idea that my mother and grandmother had the same birthday, but my mother absolutely hated it, and felt that her special day had been "stolen" by her mother. Consequently, doing what many parents do to heal themselves, we were always given fabulous birthday parties with lots of guests, gifts, and most of all, spectacular tiered birthday cakes, baked & decorated by my mother herself, cake decorating being her chosen artistic outlet. As an adult, I would never consider going to work on my birthday unless it was totally unavoidable, and usually try to pack the day doing things that I love - nice meals, friends, shopping, a spa visit, etc.

Last week I started mulling over what I would cook for a special fantasy birthday dinner, and with my chef de barbeque's assistance it came to pass in an abbreviated but most satisfactory form:

Menu

Fromage d'Affinois & Asiago fresca with panzanella crackers

Gazpacho Andaluz

Popovers

Bistecca alla Fiorentina

Vegetables en brochette

Al Di La's Torta di Pere (Bittersweet Chocolate & Pear Cake)

The man of mystery himself- Mr. Vincent Price

The gazpacho recipe is my adaptation of one served at Botin, a restaurant in Madrid founded c. 1725. Yea these many long years ago (well, about 30 years ago) I actually ate gazpacho at Botin, but the recipe comes via a truly delightful vintage 1960's cookbook- A Treasury of Great Recipes by Mary and Vincent Price. Yes that Vincent Price, star of many a bloodcurdling B monster movie, who evidently was quite a gourmand when he wasn't sipping blood. The cookbook is a compendium of recipes from what were at the time some of the world's most illustrious restaurants, many of which, sadly have closed their doors- from dinner at Tour d'Argent in Paris to breakfast on the Santa Fe Super Chief. Probably the most amusing recipe is the one for frankfurters from the newly opened (at the time) LA Dodgers stadium, Chavez Ravine.

Gazpacho Andaluz
serves 4-6.

6 slices white bread, cubed
3 ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded & chopped
1 cucumber, chopped
1 green bell pepper, chopped
1 quart tomato juice

1 clove garlic
2 Tb wine vinegar
1/2 t. cumin
salt & pepper
3 Tb olive oil

Garnishes
1 red bell pepper
1 green bell pepper
1 lg. tomato
1 cucumber
Baguette slices rubbed with garlic and olive oil, and toasted. (Recipe here.)

Layer the bread and chopped vegetables in a large bowl. Pour tomato juice over all. Cover and refrigerate at least 1 hour.

Puree the soup in a food processor with the garlic, olive oil, vinegar, and cumin. Correct the seasonings. Chill for at least 2 hours.

Chop garnish vegetables and mix together. Sprinkle on top of each serving of soup. Serve cold with baguette croutons.

Hard to match the satisfaction of pulling these babies out of the oven!

Perfect Popovers
Palo Alto baking goddess Flo Braker's recipe. Declared by our guests to be better than Neiman's (Marcus, that is.) To prevent sticking, be sure to generously butter the muffin cups and extract the popovers asap.

2 eggs
1 c. whole milk at room temp
1 Tb melted butter
1 c. flour
½ t. salt

Adjust the oven rack to the lower third of the oven; and preheat the oven to 400°. Generously grease 6 popover cups or a large muffin size tin with butter.

Combine the eggs, milk, melted butter, flour, and salt in a blender or food processor; process for about 40 seconds. Be sure to scrape down the sides of the bowl a couple of times and blend until the mixture is completely smooth.

To make by hand, whisk together the eggs, milk, and butter in a large bowl. Add the flour and salt and beat until very smooth.

Pour the batter into the cups or tin, filling each ½ to 2/3 full. Bake until the popovers are puffed and golden brown, 35-40 minutes. Do not open the oven door during baking or the popovers will collapse.

Serve with butter and jam of your choice.
Makes 6-8 popovers.  (Flo Braker; SF Chronicle, 1993.)

Bistecca alla Fiorentina
We have gorged on many wonderful specimens of this fine thick cut Porterhouse steak. The one eaten at Mamma Gina in Florence in 2007 has been memorialized on our computerized photo frame, and more recently a nice one was shared among three of us at perennial favorite Cantinetta Luca in Carmel last July. This recipe is courtesy of Saveur magazine, issue #157.
Serves 4


2 (1½″- 2 " thick) bone-in porterhouse steaks (3½ lb.) at room temperature
¼ cup olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
2 sprigs rosemary
Lemon wedges, for serving

Heat a charcoal grill or set a gas grill to high; bank the coals or turn off burner on one side. Brush the steaks with half the oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill the steaks on the hottest part of grill, flipping once, until browned, 4-6 minutes. Using rosemary sprigs as a brush, baste the steaks with the remaining oil. Cook to desired doneness, 4-6 minutes more for medium rare, or until an instant-read thermometer reads 125°. If the outside starts to burn before the steak is fully cooked, move to the cooler side of the grill until done. Let steaks rest 5 minutes; slice against the grain along the bone. Serve with lemon wedges.

Vegetables en brochette
For 4 people. Just made this up on the fly.

4 small zucchini, ends removed & cut in 1" chunks
8-10 large mushrooms, stems trimmed & cut in half vertically
8 (or more) 1" diameter boiling potatoes
1 red bell pepper, seeded & cut in 1 1/2" squares
1 green bell pepper, seeded & cut in 1 1/2" squares
olive oil for brushing
salt & pepper

6-8 12" wooden skewers, soaked for 1 hour in water

Parboil the potatoes for about 20 minutes until they are just cooked. Alternately thread the vegetables on skewers. Brush with olive oil and cook on the grill along with the meat, turning once or twice. cooking time is about ten minutes.


Al Di La's Pear- Chocolate Cake from Smitten Kitchen failed quality control- too done on the outside and underdone in the middle. Having had an underdone cake disaster earlier in the week, I went overboard, or rather, overbaked. Will try it again soon using a tube pan. Instead I offer a tried and true family recipe
Nadine’s Cheesecake (photo to follow)
While people from the East Coast usually say this isn’t rich enough, it's rich enough for us! The legend in our family is that this recipe was the origin of Saralee’s cheesecake. In the 1940's a member of the family from Los Angeles that started Saralee was hospitalized in Fresno, and my grandmother didn't know her well enough to justify buying her flowers, so she baked her a cheesecake instead. When the woman recovered she asked for the recipe, and little did my grandmother know what would become of it!

1 1/2 boxes vanilla wafers
1/2 c. butter, melted
3/4 c. sugar
3 Tb flour
1/4 t. salt
24 oz. cream cheese, room temp.
6 eggs, separated
2 t. vanilla
1 1/2 c. sour cream

Preheat the oven to 325°.
Crumble the vanilla wafers into crumbs and mix with the butter. Press them onto the bottom and sides of a 9 1/2” springform pan. Refrigerate.

Blend the sugar, flour, salt, and cream cheese together until well mixed, then add the egg yolks, vanilla, and sour cream. Blend well, until smooth.

Beat the egg whites until stiff, and fold them into the cream cheese mixture. Pour the batter into the crumb-lined pan. Bake 1 1/4 – 1 1/2 hours, until nicely browned on top. The cake may crack a little. When done, cover the cake with a clean dishtowel and leave in the turned off oven until it has cooled. Refrigerate until serving time.

Sprinkle top with powdered sugar before serving.

Mother-Daughter Chard Challenge

The Picky Eater was home on furlough for a few weeks recently and was cooking in overdrive, trying  to take advantage of all the great summer produce. One Sunday we were entranced by the baby chard offered by a vendor at our farmers market, which led her mother to conceive of the Chard Challenge. We purchased a double bag of chard and were off to the races, as it were, with a week of green & purple tinged leaves flying around the kitchen.

While it may be true that my daughter is a certified picky eater, the chard challenge provided ample evidence that her mother is a certified picky cook. While the Picky Eater whipped up a delicious white bean and chard soup with ease, her mother ran through three different recipes and used up about 6 pounds of chard, not to mention quantities of onions, eggs, butter, etc, and countless hours of her time before she got it what she thought of as right!

So, let's start with the Picky Eater's recipe, which will provide good hearty eating from now until next spring. Just be sure to cook the beans a little longer than she did- apparently she likes them crunchy, not soft and toothsome, as her parents (and the rest of the world) do.

Roasted tomato sauce
5 medium tomatoes
1 shallot (peeled)
5+ cloves of garlic (peeled)
Salt & pepper

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Roast the tomatoes, shallot and garlic until they have caramelized and slightly shriveled about 40 minutes. If the garlic or shallots get really dark before the tomatoes are done, pull them out so they don't burn.  Chop the lot up with a mezzaluna or food processor (if doing it by hand, remove large bits of skin), add more salt if you think it needs it.

Infinitely tastier than something from a can!

White Bean & Chard soup  [dorm substitutions in brackets]
Makes 4 servings

1 carrot
5-6 cloves of garlic
1 rib of celery
1 teaspoon olive oil
4 sundried tomato halves
1/2 pound white beans
Enough water / stock to cover plus 2"
1/2 chard bundle, stems removed

Chop the carrot and celery up fine, then saute them and the garlic cloves (left whole) in olive oil over low heat until they are soft and slightly fragrant.  [If you're working with limited facilities, I suggest buying dried vegetable flake and substituting about 1/2-1 tablespoon and adding that when you add the beans.]

Add the beans, chopped tomato mixture, and stock / water (I use one can Swanson's chicken stock and add water until it's the right height) [powdered stock or bouillon cubes work well if you make them 1/2 the concentration the directions say].  Simmer (BARELY and UNCOVERED) until the beans are the consistency you like (creamy but not mushy or crunchy).  If necessary (depending on the saltiness of your stock) add additional salt after ~1.5 hours of cooking, when the soup starts to smell like beans and not like vegetables.  You may need to add more liquid, just keep it from going completely dry.  Relax.  This is really flexible.

When the beans are just about done, chop the chard leaves into long strips.  When the beans are actually done, add the chard ribbons and stir around until wilted.  Remove from heat. [Let cool, ladle into 4 plastic bags and freeze.  You can reheat it over the next 2-4 weeks for dinners]

Nothing to it, right? Prepare yourself for my travails.

I started with the "Torta d'Erbe" from Deborah Madison's Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone. It used a yeasted pastry crust, which only required a quick rise, no pre-baking, and was less rich than a traditional pastry dough. Filling ingredients were chard, sorrel, scallions, parsley, ricotta, eggs, milk, gruyere cheese ... I was good on everything but the sorrel and ricotta, so I decided to omit them and go for a quiche style filling.  Cross checked the recipe against a Leek & Swiss Chard Tart from Smitten Kitchen.  So far, so good.  Crust rolled out like a breeze, filling went together, no sweat. Popped it in the oven.

Looked like a photo from Bon Appetit coming out of the oven. Took a couple of bites.... disappointment! Soggy bottom crust more or less ruined everything else, and the chard had an unappealingly strong metallic taste. Should I try it again- pre-bake the shell? Paint the bottom using Dijon mustard or beaten egg white as a sealant? Forget it? Time to move onward and upward.

Spent more time marking recipes in Veg Cooking for Everyone while waiting to pick up Picky Eater at dance class. Couldn't decide which to go with. The Picky Eater suggested trying a variation on a giant spinach, mushroom and ham turnover (Pantin aux epinards, Simone Beck) in From Julia Child's Kitchen that I had reminisced about making in the distant past. Okay, let's try it with the yeasted pastry and chard. Had some Canadian bacon to substitute for the ham. Stop at the grocery for a couple more pounds of chard and extra gruyere. Make the pastry, cook the chard, make the onion flavored bechamel, saute the mushrooms with the ham and cooked chard. Roll out the pastry into a 12" x 18" rectangle. Spread out the filling (which is looking a little meagre.) Seal, brush with egg wash, and bake the tart.

Pantin unfolded.

Kitchen looks like a disaster area.

Looks impressive coming out of the oven. Proof (or lack thereof) is in the eating- filling to pastry ratio is too slight, as expected. Chard still tastes tinny. Time to admit defeat? Never!

A little more filling would have been nice.

Guests coming over for dinner on Sunday. Another chard opportunity. What about gnudi, aka gnocchi verdi from Canal House Cooking vol. 7, substituting chard for spinach and serving with tomato sauce in lieu of sage butter? Splurge on artisan whole milk ricotta. Dig some homemade tomato sauce out of the freezer. Prepare mixture the day before. Poach immediately before serving. YES!! They don't disintegrate during cooking, the tomato sauce is light and doesn't mask the flavor of the gnudi, which isn't metallic. Wish I had chopped the chard more finely. Success at last!

Gnocchi aka Gnudi Verdi
Love the word gnudi! It refers to the fact that these are basically a ravioli filling standing on their own, not encased in a pasta prison.
Adapted from Canal House Cooking volume 7 byMelissa Hamilton & Christopher Hirsheimer
Serves 4-6

This dough must be refrigerated 3 hours or more (overnight) before cooking. Once you have the chard prepared the dough comes together very quickly.

2 pounds fresh chard leaves
1 1/2 cups (16 oz) whole milk ricotta
1 Tb melted butter
3/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1 tsp freshly grated nutmeg
Salt & pepper 6 Tb of flour

4 Tb additional butter, melted
Grated Parmesan
Fresh tomato sauce (recipe below)

Cut away the leaf sections of the chard from the stalks, and discard the stalks, Wash the chard leaves in a colander without shaking dry, and place them in a large saucepan. (The water clinging to the leaves is enough to cook the chard in.) Cook over medium heat until just tender. When cool, squeeze the chard  dry by the handful over the colander. Finely mince and place in a large bowl.

Mix together the chard, ricotta, 1 Tb melted butter, Parmesan, and eggs with a rubber spatula. Season to taste with nutmeg, salt and pepper. Sift the flour through a sieve into the chard mixture and use the spatula to mix it just enough to incorporate the flour. The dough will seem soft and a little sticky.

Refrigerate in a covered container for at least three hours, or make it the day before and refrigerate overnight.

About 20 minutes before serving heat the tomato sauce over low and keep it warm. Fill a wide pan with water to a depth of about 3 inches. Season the water with salt and bring it to a gentle simmer over medium heat. Adjust the heat to keep the water barely simmering. Fill a measuring cup with cold water and pull out two tea spoons. Retrieve the chilled gnudi dough. Dip the spoons in the water and use one to scoop up some dough. Use the other spoon to shape the dough into an oval dumpling shape aka quenelle. Hold the spoon in the simmering water for a second and the gnudi will slide off and sink to the bottom of the pan. Cook 6-10 gnudi at a time until they float to the surface and feel firm, about 4-5 minutes. Hold the gnudi in a buttered & covered casserole in a warm (250 degree) oven until they are all cooked, serving as soon as possible.

To serve, smear a generous spoonful of warm tomato sauce on the bottom of a flat soup dish. Attractively arrange 3-5 gnudi on top, drizzle them with a little melted butter, and toss on a sprinkling of grated Parmesan and a bit more salt and pepper.

Forming / poaching the gnudi.

Fresh Tomato Sauce
(from Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone by Deborah Madison)
Makes 2 1/2 cups

3 pounds ripe tomatoes, quartered
3 Tb chopped fresh basil or 2 tsp mixed dried Italian or Herbes de Provence
Salt & pepper
2 Tb olive oil

Put the tomatoes in a heavy saucepan with the herbs. Cover the pan and cook the tomatoes over medium-high heat, keeping an eye on them to sure that they don't scorch. When they have broken down, after about 10 minutes, remove from the heat, cool slightly, and briefly puree the tomatoes in a food processor. If the sauce is not as thick as you want, return it to the pot and cook over low heat, stirring often until it is the desired consistency. Season with salt and pepper and stir in the olive oil.

Freezes nicely.

Garlic Harvest 2013

"The Garlic Braider" c. 2012

Just a few weeks ago the estate gardener, aka the Daddy, brought in the 2013 garlic harvest, our third in as many years. Space for cultivation being at a minimum on our suburban property, and suffering the vagaries of hardpan-esque soil, he chooses to sow his garlic cloves in containers, assuring us a small but successful crop. Amid much admiration for his talents in the field, the manor house cook tries to utilize as many cloves as possible on a daily basis, in that inevitable race with spoilage. You may laugh, but the first year's harvest went off before it was used, mainly because the cook was convinced that the homegrown garlic should only be used for "special" recipes. Go figure.

If you are interested in planting your own garlic at home, our gardener recommends these instructions for growing garlic from Love Apple Farms, produce supplier to David Kinch's famed Los Gatos restaurant Manresa.

It has always been a perplexing mystery to the Picky Eater's parents how she, who long eschewed anything besmirched with strong flavors, has always adored garlic. From late childhood and beyond one of her favorite go-to dinners was her dad's abbreviated version of America's Test Kitchen's  "Pasta with Garlic & Oil." Take the original recipe (below), remove the red pepper flakes, parsley, lemon juice, and Parmesan cheese, and you've got the Picky Eater's minimalist version.

Garlic and "goujons" - what a tasty combination!

Pasta with Garlic & Oil (adapted from America's Test Kitchen: The Best Recipe)
Serves 4 to 6

6 TB olive oil
12 garlic cloves, minced (about 1/4 cup)
Salt
1 pound spaghetti or pasta of choice
3/4 tsp red pepper flakes
3 TB chopped fresh parsley
2 tsp fresh lemon juice
1 oz Parmesan cheese, grated (1/2 cup), optional

Bring 4 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot.

Combine 3 Tb of the oil, 3 Tb of the garlic, and 1/2 tsp salt in a non-stick 10" skillet. Cook over low heat, stirring almost constantly until the garlic foams and is sticky and straw colored, 10-12 minutes.

Fill a large serving bowl with hot tap water, and let it sit to warm up. Add 1 Tb salt to the boiling water and cook your pasta of choice until al dente. Reserve 1/3 cup of pasta cooking water and drain the pasta.

Off the heat, add the remaining raw garlic to the skillet, along with the red pepper flakes, parsley, lemon juice and 2 Tb of the reserved pasta water. Stir well or the garlic will clump.

Dump the water from the serving bowl and dry it. Transfer the drained pasta to the bowl; add the remaining 3 Tb of olive oil and pasta water. Toss pasta to coat. Add the garlic mixture and 3/4 tsp salt. Toss pasta again. Serve immediately, sprinkling with Parmesan cheese, if desired.

The Garlic Gala

Desiring to optimize our homegrown garlic utilization beyond pasta, we embarked on a weekend garlic gala, our domestic version of the famed Gilroy Garlic Festival without the beer consumption. With some festering chicken breasts from the freezer, an old favorite "Supremes de volaille en goujons, persillade" (Chicken breast strips sauted with parsley & garlic) was exhumed From Julia Child's Kitchen to accompany the garlic pasta, along with a "Southwestern Succotash" side dish from Gourmet (July 2005). Some amusement was derived from applying a blow torch to the chiles to remove the skins.

Don't try this unless you are a trained professional.

We decided to forgo a garlic tainted dessert and opted instead for a light and lovely variation of Deborah Madison's "Polenta Pound Cake" from Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone. If you don't have your own garlic harvest, pick up some cloves from the new crop at your local farmers market or reputable grocery store. (Chances are that outside of California they may even be trucked in from Gilroy.)

Supremes de Volaille en Goujons, Persillade
Serves 4
So many superlatives needed to describe these delectable morsels- buttery, crispy, moist, tender. Like fried chicken without the guilty grease factor.

Floured goujons about to hit the saute pan.

4-6 chicken breast halves, boned & skinned
2 Tb butter
2 Tb olive oil
Salt & pepper
3/4 cup flour
1/4 cup chopped parsley
2-3 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped

Cut the meat into slices about 2 inches long and 3/8 inch wide.  Lay them in one layer on a large piece of parchment paper or flat tray. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and sprinkle with flour to coat, turning to make sure that all sides are covered. In a small bowl stir together the chopped parsley and garlic cloves.

Melt the butter and olive oil together in a largish saute pan over medium high heat until foamy. Shake the excess flour off the goujons and put them in the saute pan. (Try not to crowd too many in, as they will start to steam rather than saute.) Toss and turn them frequently for 2-3 minutes until the meat feels springy instead of squashy and the flour exterior is golden brown. Toss in the parsley-garlic mixture and serve immediately.

Southwestern Succotash
(Adapted, skipped the cream and lime juice & added a few herbs, from Gourmet magazine, July 2005)
Makes 8 side dish servings


3 fresh poblano chiles (3/4 lb total)
2 Tb olive oil
1 medium onion, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
2 medium red bell peppers, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1 tsp. smoked paprika
1 tsp. ground cumin
1 tsp. dried Mexican oregano (regular is OK)
1 1/4 teaspoons salt
2 cups fresh corn (from 3 to 4 ears)
1 lb tomatoes, seeded & cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1 lb zucchini squash, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1 Tb slivered fresh basil
1 cup labne (thickened yogurt) or sour cream

Lay the chiles on their sides on a rimmed cookie sheet lined with foil, and broil in the oven, about 2 inches from the heat, turning so that all will sides char, for about 8 to 10 minutes. (Or, have a little pyromaniac fun and use a blowtorch.) Remove the pan from the oven and wrap the foil tightly around the chiles. Let them steam 10 minutes, then peel or rub off the skins and discard stems, seeds, and ribs. Cut the chiles into 1/2-inch pieces.

Heat the oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking, then sauté the onion and red bell pepper, stirring occasionally, until golden, about 6 minutes. Add the garlic, black pepper, cumin, paprika, oregano and 1/4 teaspoon salt and sauté, stirring, until garlic is fragrant, about 1 minute.

Add the corn, tomatoes, squash, and 1/2 teaspoon salt and cook over moderately high heat, covered, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are just tender and have exuded liquid, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove lid and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until most of the liquid is evaporated, about 5 minutes.

Just before serving stir in the basil and serve with labne or sour cream for dolloping on the side.

Lucky for these cakes that I had some random blanched almonds in the freezer!

Polenta Pound Cake
(Slightly adjusted from Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone)
Makes one loaf, serving 8-10 (or less at our house)

1/4 lb butter, softened, plus 2 Tb more for the pan
1 cup sugar
Zest from one lemon
3 eggs
1 tsp. vanilla
1/2 tsp. almond extract
1/2 cup sour cream or yogurt (eat the rest with the succotash)
1/2 cup + 2 Tb cornmeal
1 cup flour, plus extra for the pan
1/2 tsp. baking powder
1/4 tsp. salt
1/2 cup blanched or not almonds, roughly chopped

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease a 4x10" or 5x8" loaf pan with butter and dust it with flour.

Stir the cornmeal, flour, baking powder, and salt together in a small bowl.

Use an electric mixer to cream the butter, sugar and lemon zest until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add the eggs one at a time, beating after each, then add the flavorings and sour cream. Stir in the dry ingredients, mixing only until just combined. (I might consider doing that by hand.)

Spoon the batter into the prepared pan, smooth the top, and give the pan a sharp rap to remove any air pockets. Scatter the chopped almonds over the top and gently press them into the batter.

Bake the cake in the center of the oven until the top is firm to the touch and golden brown or a cake tester comes out clean, about one hour. Let the cake cool  for 10 minutes and then turn out on a rack to cool completely.
Delicious for dessert and breakfast the next day.