Monday, November 26, 2012

Can a Non (practicing) Jew Make Challah?

Looks like challah to me!
That was the question posed by the Picky Eater's cousin Samantha vis-a-vis moi on a recent Friday Sabbath. Samantha is a fairly devout Jew, and is very concerned about my lack of interest in religion. So concerned, that she was skeptical about a "non-Jew's" ability to make challah. This extended to doubting that I could find a proper challah recipe, and she wanted to use a recipe from an unreliable (read purchased on sale from a book remainder bin) looking Jewish cookbook that had been handed down from my mother. When I drew the line there, we compromised by calling Anne and Samantha's friend and expert challah maker Sandy Goldberg. And, I have to admit that Sandy was good- even though she was up at Tahoe, she knew the ingredients and quantities for her challah recipe off the top of her head. Sandy even shared the secret of her success- she slightly underbakes her challah loaves.
Everything went well as we proofed the yeast, kneaded the dough, let it rise, braided, and baked the loaves. And they came out of the oven looking beautiful! I guess that you don't have to be seriously Jewish to make challah, or maybe you just need a Jewish girl as an assistant.
Samantha with a braided loaf ready for its second rise.

After Samantha muttered a prayer in Hebrew over the bread, we fell on the first loaf and wolfed it down. I left the second loaf to cool on the stove prior to wrapping and freezing it- and that was my big mistake. While we lounged around in the back of the house, Teddy the Wonder Dog grabbed the second loaf off the stove, and had devoured two thirds of it before I caught him. He took off with the remains of the challah and made a mad dash for the back bedroom where he sought refuge in a dark corner behind the chaise lounge, unrepentant to the end!

So, let sleeping dogs lie and stay on guard when baking challah!
The culprit- cornered but unyielding!

Sandy Goldberg's Best Ever Challah
Makes 2-3 loaves

2 Tb active dry (not rapid or quick rise) yeast
1 Tb sugar
1 cup warm water (100-110°)
7 ½ cups flour
1Tb salt
5 large eggs, at room temperature 
¾ cup honey
4 oz. (1 stick) butter, melted and cooled + 2 Tb butter to grease the bread bowl
Butter or oil to grease cookie sheets

Note: The most important rule for yeast breadmaking is like the story of the Three Bears- not too hot, not too cool, but just right. Be careful that all the ingredients are at room temperature or a little warmer, or the yeast will not rise. The same goes for the room where you let the dough rise- it should be cozy and warm too. Placing the bowl of rising dough near your stove with the oven turned on to its lowest temperature will work.
Mixing the yeast
Combine the yeast, sugar, and warm water in a small bowl. Allow the yeast to “proof” for about 10 minutes. It will start to bubble.
Making the dough
In a large bowl combine 7 cups of the flour and the salt. In a separate large measuring cup or medium bowl, whisk together 4 of the eggs, melted butter, and honey. Make a well in the center of the flour and pour in the yeast mixture followed by the egg mixture. Stir together with a wooden spoon until as much liquid as possible is combined with the flour, and then use your hands to mix in the loose bits of flour.
Kneading the dough- kneading pushes the yeast in the dough up against the gluten in the flour and makes the bread dough rise.
Sprinkle your work surface (i.e. counter) with the remaining ½ cup flour and turn the dough out of the bowl. Knead the dough by pushing the dough forward and down with your palms. Lift the dough and give it a quarter turn, then fold the half closest to you over, and push it again. Continue the rhythm of turn, fold, and push for about 10 minutes, until the dough feels soft and silky. Form the dough into a ball.
Grease the inside of a large bowl with the remaining 2 Tb of butter. Put the bread dough ball in the bowl upside down to grease the top, and then turn over. Make sure that the whole bread dough ball is buttered. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and then a clean dishtowel, and place in a warm spot in your kitchen to rise. Let the dough rise until double in size, about 2 hours.
Forming the loaves
After the dough has doubled, “punch it down” with your fist. Let it rest while you grease two cookie sheets with butter or oil. Cut the dough into either two or three pieces, depending on the size loaves that you want. Cut each piece into three pieces, and roll each piece into a rope about 14-16” long. Lay the three ropes side by side and braid tightly. Put the loaf on one of the greased cookie sheets, and form the remaining loaves in the same way. Lightly cover each loaf with a piece of plastic wrap or a clean dishtowel, and place them back in your warm spot. Let the loaves rise for about 40 minutes, until they are soft, puffy, and almost double in size. Remove the towels and plastic wrap.
Baking the challah
Arrange the oven racks in the upper and lower thirds and preheat the oven to 350°.  Beat the remaining egg with 1 Tb of water. Gently brush the top and sides of the challah loaves with the beaten egg. Bake for about 25-35 minutes, until the tops are nicely browned, taking them out when slightly underbaked.

Say a prayer (if you’re Jewish) and enjoy! Your extra loaf can be wrapped in plastic and foil and frozen. Defrost and reheat uncovered.

Monday, November 19, 2012

Faye's Carrot Cake

Faye Celayeta nee Stewart was my mother's closest friend from the late 1950's until Faye's death in 1995. Faye was also the “Auntie Mame” in my life. She lived in San Francisco in the 1930s, 40s, & 50s; had an apartment on Russian Hill, knew everyone there was to know, and went everywhere there was to go. In the 1950s, Faye had a cooking show on KPIX, and I remember watching her as a child. She always said that she replaced the test pattern. Faye had impeccable taste, wit, and an inspired zest for life. We will always love her.

The big secret is that Faye didn’t really like to cook. On her show, the floorboys always prepared the food, and she just faced the cameras.
We inherited several "heirloom" recipes from Faye, but none is more precious than her recipe for carrot cake. This is not heavily loaded with pineapple, coconut, and raisins, it is moist and elegant with a soupcon of toasted almonds to break up the texture.
My mother putting the finishing touches on one of her wedding cakes.
I don't recall quite when my mother started baking it, sometime in the late 1960's sounds about right. In the intervening decades Faye's carrot cake has been the basis for a plethora of birthday and wedding cakes for friends, cousins, children and grandchildren, including my own (wedding & child). While I have baked this cake for casual home consumption many times, this past Saturday was my first attempt for a "formal" event, on the occasion of my sister's milestone birthday.
Our wedding cake (made by Nadine) & the bride and groom, c. 1990.


Cake positioned to minimize its asymmetrical decorating.
And, I have to give my mother credit. While I know that she must have stabilized the cream cheese icing with some concoction purchased at Mrs. Edwards' cake decorating emporium, I was clueless as to what it might have been, as well as reluctant to adulterate the icing with artificial additives. BUT, with 1/2 pound of butter, 1 1/2 pounds of cream cheese, and about four pounds of powdered sugar,  this icing was a cake decorating challenge. It was a classic story of "too hot," too cold," and rarely just right. I kept refrigerating the cake and the icing to keep them from softening, but inevitably during the decorating, the warmth of my hands gripping the pastry tube for dear life would soften the icing inside until it collapsed as I piped it out, and when it was fresh from the refrigerator, it was too stiff to use! Frustrating. And, I was on such a sugar high from licking my fingers that it took a glass of cognac at 3:00 am to put me to sleep!

But, I recommend this cake most highly for eating and celebrating. May it be your family heirloom too.                                                                                                                               


Faye's Carrot Cake
2 c. flour
2 c. sugar
2 tsp. baking soda
1 tsp. salt
2 tsp. cinnamon
4 eggs
1 cup salad oil
4 c. grated carrots
1/2 c. chopped nuts
Preheat the oven to 350°. 

Stir together the flour, sugar, soda, salt, and cinnamon. In a large mixer bowl, beat the eggs until frothy, then slowly beat in the oil.

Hand stir in the flour mixture, stirring until smooth. Mix in the carrots and nuts.
Pour the batter into 3 greased & floured 8” round cake pans, or a 10” tube pan. Bake 25-30 minutes in 8” pans, and about 1 hour in a tube pan.
Cool on a rack 10 minutes, then turn out to cool completely on racks. Fill and frost with cream cheese icing (below). Decorate with walnut halves.
Serves 8-12.
Cream Cheese Icing                                                                                                                                
4 Tb butter, softened
6 oz. cream cheese, softened
4 1/3 c. powdered sugar
1 t. vanilla
Blend the butter and cream cheese until fluffy. Gradually beat in the powdered sugar, continue beating until smooth and creamy. Stir in the vanilla. Let stand at room temperature for 10 minutes before frosting the cake.

Wednesday, November 14, 2012

Foraging for Food In Pittsburgh, Part 1

We all wondered how the Picky Eater would fare in the land of pierogi, Steelers, and pastrami; and the answer is, just fine, thank you very much! She spends most Saturdays taking public transit around Pittsburgh to her favorite exotic foodie haunts. On a recent so-called "Parents Weekend" visit, her dear old mom played chauffeur and ferried her east side, west side, and generally all around the town.

First stop was the Strip District, the city's food center, teeming with ethnic markets- Pennsylvania Macaroni Co., Lotus Grocery, Reyna Foods, and more. And, a newly minted "Public Market," fairly quiet on a Friday afternoon but demonstrating plenty of potential- heritage legumes, local dairy cheeses, and fresh olive oils at Olio Fresca (natch!) But, the Picky Eater's favorite stall is The Berry Patch, where she can't decide between the myriad of yummy flavors and has to try them all.

The Picky Eater is partial to weird Asian condiments at the Lotus. For some reason the sales clerk decided that we shouldn't take pictures of the vegetables, but here's the P.E. posing with the tofu.
Next it was ancho chiles at Reyna-
Doesn't she look happy? Who would have thought ....
After a few more stops to browse- the cheese counter at Penn Mac Co.,
the biscotti at Enrico's, and sniff the chocolates at Mon Aimee Chocolat, we were off to .... you'll never guess where!

An afterword: Somewhere on the strip there is a mythical (to me) restaurant named Primanti Brothers, where all sandwiches are topped with french fries, cole slaw & tomatoes, and onions by request. (See photo)                                         And, the Fresh Cut Fried Potato menu lists Primanti Fries, Cheese fries,  Chili Fries, Chili Cheese Fries, and Smallman Street Fries (chili, cheese, bacon & sour cream) 
Somehow I don't think that I will be dining there any time ever with the Picky Eater. Although I must confess that I did sneak away for a yummy corned beef sandwich at the Smallman Street Deli, and it was worth every inch of the 10 block trek!                       
Enrico Biscotti Company
2022 Penn Ave.
Pittsburgh, PA
Mon - Sat: 6 am - 4 pm; Sun 9 am - 2 pm
412-281-2602  http://www.enricobiscotti.com/biscotti2/

Lotus Foods                                                                                                                                              1649 Penn Ave.
Pittsburgh, PA
412-281-3050

Mon Aimee Chocolat
2101 Penn Avenue 
Pittsburgh, PA 15222
Mon-Fri 8:30 am–5 pm; Sat 7:30 am–5 pm; Sun 10 am–3:30 pm   
412-395-0022  www.monaimeechocolat.com/       
                                                                                              
Pennsylvania Macaroni Company
2010-2012 Penn Ave.
Pittsburgh, PA
Sundays 9:00 am- 2:30 pm
Monday thru Saturday 6:30 am - 4:30 pm   
412-471-8330  http://www.pennmac.com/   
                       
Pittsburgh Public Market
Produce Terminal Building
Smallman Street Entrance opposite 17th Street                                                                                   Fridays 10 am - 4 pm; Saturdays 9 am - 5 pm; Sundays 10 am - 4 pm  http://pittsburghpublicmarket.org/

Primanti Brothers
46 18th Street
Pittsburgh, PA 15222
(412) 263-2142   http://primantibros.com/home.html  24 Hours, 7 Days A Week!                                  

Reyna Foods
2023 Penn Ave.
Pittsburgh, PA
412-261-2606

Smallman Street Deli
2840 Smallman Street
Pittsburgh, PA 15222
412-434-5800  http://smallmanstreetdeli.com/
Monday – Friday, 9 a.m. – 5 a.m.  Saturday, 10 a.m. - 4 p.m.